Hello and happy new year! For my first blog post of 2019, I thought we’d escape the January blues and grey skies for a spot of wanderlust. So if you’re dreaming of sunnier climes and a Spring holiday, let me introduce you yo my design guide to Porto.
The quieter, cooler cousin to the hip, urban scene of Lisbon, Portugal’s second largest city is relaxed, arty and beautifully rough around the edges. Sited along the estuary of the river Douro in northern Portugal, Porto is known historically for its international harbour and the export of port wine named after the city. The old town, Ribeira – a cluster of medieval houses and narrow, winding streets that hug the steep slope down to the water – have earned the city its UNESCO World Heritage status. The city has the pretty tiled facades and azulejos to rival Lisbon, but there’s a kind of magic to the city’s crumbling nature; the weather beaten granite walls that line the water, the rusting balcony rails and the vintage shop signs that give a hint of nostalgia.
Today, as well as old world charm and picturesque streetscapes, visitors to Porto are greeted by a vibrant cultural scene. Ever since the city was named European Capital of Culture in the early 2000s, Porto has invested in the arts to help re-energise its centre. Now, cutting edge architecture, modern art galleries and contemporary design – such as Rem Koolhaas’ Casa da Música – sit side by side with the old and heritage. If you fancy taking in an exhibition and a spot of culture before meandering down the hill to relax and unwind over a glass of port, this is the city for you.
I didn’t do much research when we visited way back in August (yes, I’ve only just got round to this travel guide!). Often I find the most Instagrammed places to be the most disappointing; there’s nothing like discovering a city for yourself, with your own eyes, and stumbling across a perfect little place you didn’t know about before. We found plenty of those, so I’ve created a map with all my tips for design lover’s Porto below. You can download and print off the map, or scroll down to read all about my favourite places in more detail.
In brief:
Things to do
– Centro Portugues de Fotografia
– Museu Serralves
– Casa da Música
– São Bento Railway Station
– Walk over Ponte Luis 1 and do a Port tour
Places to eat and drink
– Brick
– época Porto
– Mondo Deli
– Cantina 32
– Cafe Namban Oporto kitchen
– Era Uma Vez no Porto
– Miss’Opo
– Early Cedofeita
– Rosa et al
– Cafe Candelabro
Where to shop
– Earlymade
– PULP Studio
– Claus Porto
– A Vida Portuguesa
– La Paz
– Manifesto Bookstore
– Coração Alecrim
– Livraria Lello
Things to do – art galleries, museum and design
– Centro Portugues de Fotografia
Housed in the bastion of the former Relação Prison, Centro Portugues de Fotografia is a unique photography museum that displays work in the old cells. When we visited their was a fascinating exhibition dedicated to Frida Kahlo’s photography.
Campo Mártires da Pátria S/N, 4050-368 Porto, closed on Mondays
– Museu Serralves by Álvaro Siza
You could spend all day at this cultural institution – checking out the latest contemporary art exhibition, strolling around the sprawling sculpture gardens and having a tour inside the 1920s, salmon pink Wes Anderson-esque mansion that sits on the site. Designed in 1999 by the Porto-based architect Álvaro Siza Vieira, the Museu de Arte Contemporânea part of the foundation is a clean, minimalist, white box of a gallery with an extensive permanent collection. You’ll find modern art and large scale installations by the likes of Anish Kapoor. Have lunch on the top floor terrace before taking in the sculpture park and stopping off at the garden Teahouse for a coffee and Portuguese pastry.
Rua Dom João de Castro,210, 4150-417 Porto, open daily
– Casa da Música by OMA
OMA’s concert hall in Cedofeita looks a little like a meteor has landed from outer space. All angular lines and sharp angles, the jewel-like, pale concrete Casa da Música stands out on a new public square in the historic Rotunda da Boavista. If you don’t have time to see a performance, they offer daily guided architectural tours around the building for 10 euros per person, which is the best way to have a proper look inside this curious space.
The tour takes in all the performance spaces and explains the programming and organisation of the building. A signature of Rem Koolhaas’ buildings, the Casa da Música fuses different influences, textures and materials to surprise and delight the visitor. Inside, aluminium-clad corridors and stairways give the feeling of entering a spaceship. The auditorium is wrapped in warm wood and has a scalloped glass curtain that gives a warped view of the city outside.
Av. da Boavista 604-610, 4149-071 Porto, open daily
– São Bento Railway Station
It’s worth popping into this railway station in the old town to take in the spectacular azulejo tiles that line its entrance. There’s lots of people bustling about but they’re mainly looking up.
Praça Almeida Garrett, 4000-069 Porto
– Walk over Ponte Luis 1 and do a Port tour
Sampling the local port is a must in Porto. Once you’ve got your bearings around the old town, head to the opposite side of the river Douro, where you’ll find all the port houses at Cais de Gaia. Walk over the Ponte Luis 1 to take in the best views of the pastel-shaded, waterside buildings. There’s lots of places vying for your trade and tastebuds, but some of the better are higher up the hill with the best views. We loved Taylor’s for it’s simple audio tour explaining the making of Port, followed by a tasting included in the ticket price on their terrace. Sip and sample amongst the company of their resident peacocks.
Rua do Choupelo 250, 4400-088 Vila Nova de Gaia
Places to eat and drink
We were really impressed with the food and drink scene in Porto; we ate very well while we were in the city for a weekend break. Everything from platters of traditional Portuguese fare, through cute coffee shops and wine bars, to healthy, vegetarian delis and homemade gelaterias.
– Brick
Vibrant open sandwiches (or tartines if you’re French) served on wooden platters in a cool, relaxed setting with large, communal tables.
R. Campo dos Mártires da Pátria 103, 4050-367 Porto
– época Porto
We loved this place so much we went back more than once. The friendly girls serving excellent coffee, the organic brunch and healthy breakfast dishes, the magazines on every table, the beautifully designed setting – it ticked all the boxes. The menu features delicious plates made with local produce, things like buckwheat pancakes with greek yoghurt, almond butter and coconut sugar syrup or homemade sourdough and organic, Turkish eggs.
Rua do Rosário 22, 4050-522 Porto
– Mondo Deli
This was my favourite place of the trip – there was just something about that simple interior and urban oasis of a courtyard that appealed. Maybe it was the IKEA x HAY chairs, or maybe it was the excellent port and cheese, but this is a must visit for me. So it’s with a lot of disappointment that I read that Mondo Deli closed permanently in December 2018… (That teaches me for doing a travel guide 5 months later.) Still I thought I’d include the images because it was such a lovely place. The street Rua do Almada is still worth visiting for it’s mix of arty shops and small restaurants off the tourist trail.
Also see:
– Cantina 32 – this lively Rua das Flores restaurant serves up sharing plates in a bustling setting
– Cafe Namban Oporto kitchen – a small but perfectly formed cafe for authentic Japanese bento boxes
– Era Uma Vez no Porto – Meaning ‘Once upon a time in Porto’, this hidden away, first floor bar has a cool edge with an eclectic mix of vintage furniture
– Miss’Opo – A cafe, bar and restaurant housed in a raw, industrial interior below a small guesthouse
– Rosa et al – A three-storey guesthouse with pared-back interiors and six beautiful suites. Non-guests can pop in for brunch or 5pm tea on Saturdays and Sundays
– Early Cedofeita – A simple, stylish cafe by the people behind Rosa et al townhouse
– Cafe Candelabro – A chilled bar housed in a former 1950s bookshop
Where to shop
– Earlymade
A contemporary, art gallery-like shop with an avant-garde display of clothing made in Portugal.
Rua do Rosário 235, 4050-524 Porto
– PULP Studio
Located on the same street as Mondo Deli (was), Pulp is a beautiful shop to pick up a unique souvenir – choose from experimental ceramics and handmade jewellery.
Rua do Almada 325, 4050-037 Porto
– Claus Porto
Claus Porto is a 130-year-old Portuguese brand known for its handcrafted soaps and beauty products, packaged in beautiful, vintage designs. Their flagship store in Porto is worth stopping at for it’s contemporary display cases and exhibition space on the first floor detailing the history of the old company.
R. das Flores 22, 4050-262 Porto
– A Vida Portuguesa – A sister store to the three in Lisbon, this shop sells traditional Portuguese products, everything from pretty soaps to hand-painted dishes
– La Paz – A menswear label inspired by the Atlantic and its people
– Manifesto Bookstore – the best place for the latest independent magazines
– Coração Alecrim – a charming shop with beautiful and sustainable products for the home and to wear
– Livraria Lello – an extraordinarily ornate bookshop that’s now so popular due to Harry Potter fame that you have to pay an entrance fee and brave a long queue to get in…
So that’s my design guide to Porto! A few of you have asked for more minimalist travel guides, and while you could never call Porto minimalist (there’s too many pretty tiles to call it that), I think this is the perfect place if you want a weekend escape in a creative city that appreciates good designs and great food. Let me know if you have any tips of your own or if you’re planning to visit this charming spot yourself!
All images: Cate St Hill
