The CSH Travel Guide to picturesque Puglia with Sawday’s [press trip]

[Ad – press trip: my flights and accommodation were covered by Sawday’s while in southern Italy, creating this Puglia travel guide]

Puglia – the southern region of Italy that forms the heel of the country’s boot – had been on my travel list for a while now. I’d seen friends enjoy romantic breaks there, and pretty cobbled alleyways and charming street scenes shared across Instagram. I’d heard stories of a somewhat undiscovered, unspoilt corner of Italy, off the beaten track and away from the tourist droves. The chance to wander the quiet streets of old towns at a slow pace without elbowing our way through, to drive through olive groves and sample the area’s cuisine over long, lazy lunches really appealed, so my partner Olivier and I headed to the region for a four-day weekend break at the beginning of May.

We arrived just before the peak season when everything was coming back to life. We had a trip of two halves – two days of wonderful sunshine and two of torrential rain. We were told on one tour of an old Masseria (a traditional farmhouse) that the name Puglia stems from the Italian for ‘without rain’ as the region is known for its hot, dry weather. I’m not sure how true that it is, but it does suggest that the region is normally a pretty safe bet for a summer holiday! May was actually quite a nice time of year to visit because it wasn’t too busy and overrun with crowds.

We hardly encountered a tourist group or any sort of queue until the last day in Alberobello – a sort-of Disneyland of traditional Trulli houses. Everywhere in Puglia had a very calm feeling. It took a little while to slow down from our usual London pace, but once we got into it, we fully absorbed ourselves into the Italian way of living – La Dolce Vita. Because there’s not the flashy, contemporary galleries, historic museums or world-famous tourist sites of say Rome or Florence, you’re almost forced into slowing down. Really, it’s about taking it all in and not worrying about where you’re going next – sitting outside a cafe and watching the world go by, taking time over a good breakfast, allowing yourself to get lost in the pretty streets or enjoying the sunshine and stopping for a gelato. Most of the time we just moved from one delicious meal to the next. One thing is certainly true of Puglia: you’ll eat very well indeed.

Puglia is a region scattered with small, charming, picturesque towns that you can dip in and out of – we found it was quite a nice way to pass the days by spending a couple of hours or half a day in one before moving onto the next. It was certainly do-able for a long weekend and we managed to pack a lot in. If you like a holiday with a mix of everything – sightseeing, history and a bit of beach – then Puglia has lots to offer. You can be on the coastline looking out to the Adriatic Sea, then 25 minutes later in a hilltop village, with long vistas out across the green landscape.

Ideally you’ll need a car to help you get around easily. We flew into Bari airport and from there we hired a car, snaking our way down the coastal superstrada to old port towns Polignano a Mare and Monopoli, before heading inland to ancient, fortress towns Ostuni, Locorotondo and Alberobello, and further afield, to Matera, which is just outside of Puglia.

Polignano a Mare
The first stop straight off the plane and into the car was Polignano a Mare – one of my favourite towns that we visited. Built on top of a ragged, rocky, limestone cliff that juts out along the coastline, this charming town is set against the beautiful backdrop of bright turquoise waters. The old town wraps around the sheltered shores of a small beach – the Lama Monachile – where in high summer you’ll struggle to get a square inch of sand to sit on.

Away from the beach, forget looking at a map – weave your way through the narrow, winding streets, past white-washed houses with green shutters and you’ll suddenly be surprised by a series of panoramic terraces offering views of the Adriatic. Stop for coffee in Piazza San Maria delle Grazie to people watch or Bar Lime for a drink looking over the water. Le Casa de Mojito looked cool too.

Alfresco
Then it was onto our base for the trip – the elegant, beautifully considered bed and breakfast Alfresco, which can be found on Sawday’s.

Run by owners Rosie and Giuseppe, it’s like a home away from home – nothing is too much trouble and they’re always on hand with tips and recommendations for the area. I remember my parents using Sawday guidebooks as I was growing up, we’d tour around Brittany in France with a well-thumbed book, calling up guesthouses as we went in search of accommodation for the night. It often filled me with anxiety that we didn’t have anywhere to stay until we got to a place, but in all those years we never had a bad experience. We would turn up, often on the basis of just a paragraph of information, and were never disappointed. We could always rely on Sawday’s for quality and thoughtful personal service.

It’s often the little touches that make a big difference. My mum would mark a place on if it had the jams and marmalade in nice pots. Rosie and Giuseppe have thought of everything, from cosy waffle dressing gowns and slippers to displays of fresh flowers and interiors magazines that make the room feel warm and inviting. The decor is calm and understated, with neutral walls, soft, natural textures and artisan ceramics on display. There’s crisp white sheets, a coffee machine in the room and for our suite, a little private terrace. Everything was immaculately clean.

The selling point for Alfresco is the stunning view across the countryside. It literally took my breath away. On the first evening we took it all in with a glass of wine on the terrace, and the next day we had breakfast out in the sunshine. The breakfasts were simply delicious and a real celebration of Italian produce – freshly squeezed juice, homemade yoghurt and bowls of strawberries that actually tasted like strawberries not the watery things you get here, sweet pastries, cured meats and local cheeses, all had us full until lunchtime.

Rosie and Giuseppe are looking to offer yoga retreats next year, which will be all inclusive so guests can really relax and not have to think about driving unless they really want to. They will also be able to offer cookery lessons, spa treatments and art classes with a local artist – I think I may have to go back! If that sounds up your street, you can contact Rosie via Sawday’s website.

Monopoli
The port town of Monopoli is just along the coast from Polignano a Mare. This old, white-washed town is bordered by fortified city walls that reminded me of another seaside town, Essaouira in Morocco. Watch the fishermen with their bright blue boats in the harbour or make your way around the rocky seafront to Duequattrodue, a small bar on the water’s edge.

Ostuni
Ostuni was the highlight of the trip for me – it’s like a hillier version of Polignano a Mare or Monopoli, with a maze of higgledy piggledy streets to get lost in. The view at the top is worth the climb, up through narrow passageways so you can see right across the countryside to the sea. Around every corner there was a beautiful old door or window shutter for me to take a photo of! I think Olivier got a bit bored after a while but I was in my element.

We had a wonderful lunch at Taverna della Gelosia, which we just stumbled across. This romantic restaurant is hidden below a path on a small terrace covered in wisteria vines. They specialise in regional dishes served in a fairly contemporary way – I couldn’t decide what to have so had a large antipasti dish with tastes of the region and it was fantastic.

I was also recommended Osteria del Tempo Perso too. Borgo Antico Bistro caught my eye when we passed their sunny terrace. If you’re staying near Ostuni and wish to sample real Puglian food, you have to book into Masseria Il Frantoio for their unforgettable eight course dinner. The predominantly vegetarian menu was stunning – we had a citrusy octopus salad with zucchini puree, tagliatelle with artichokes and a herb pesto, sautéed wild chicory in a sheeps cheese basket, sea bream with sea vegetables and much, much more. The hosts tell you a little about each dish and some of the history of the region. It’s 65 euros for 8 courses and certainly worth it for a romantic occasion.

Matera
On a rainy day we drove the hour and a half journey to Matera. Located in the region of Basilicata, it’s not actually in Puglia, but it’s well worth the trip. Walking through the labyrinth of honey-hued passageways and steep alleys, making your way around this ancient city is just like stepping back in time. Indeed, it was used as the backdrop for the 2004 film The Passion of Christ and it doesn’t take much imagination to picture yourself in a time before mobile phones and tourist shops.

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, it’s been suggested Matera is one of the oldest settlements in the world, inhabited since the Neolithic era. Matera’s ancient town, Sassi di Matera, first took form as a series of small caverns, grottoes and habitations dug into the rocky ravine, often built one on top of another. In the 1950s, it was declared a slum – a neglected blot on Italy’s beautiful landscape where residents had no access to running water or electricity and malaria was rife. The city was evacuated and lay abandoned for several years until the 1980s when the government began to subsidise restoration work. Today, you can still see some homes boarded up, but parts of the city are springing back to life thanks to the opening of new restaurants and boutique hotels. The city remains relatively untouched, which is what gives Matera its rough charm.

Now in a return to fortune, Matera is the European Capital of Culture for 2019, sharing the title with the city of Plovdiv in Bulgaria. We really enjoyed visiting the MUSMA – the Museo della Scultura Contemporanea – located in the 16th century Palazzo Pomarici right in the heart of the Sassi. Contemporary sculptures from international artists are displayed in cavernous underground spaces where the family used to store food, wine and livestock. It’s well worth a visit.

Alberobello
The pretty town of Alberobello was last on our list. I’d heard people recommend going before 10am to avoid the crowds – we went on a rainy morning and although it wasn’t too busy I can easily see how it can become overrun with tourists. A little like Venice, it’s become somewhat Disneyified, with souvenir shops and crowds vying to get the perfect shot.

Another UNESCO World Heritage Site, Alberobello is a very sweet little place known for its cluster of Trulli – traditional, whitewashed stone houses with cute, cone-shaped roofs. There’s over 1,000 Trulli to wonder around, some dating back to the 14th century. They were built using a dry-wall construction, overlapping limestone slabs in circles to create the unique shape. Several have been converted into shops and restaurants that you can go into. We didn’t stay too long, just enough to wander around and get the feel for the place, which at times felt like a little toy town.

I hope you’ve enjoyed my Puglia travel guide. We left plenty to go back for, such as the towns of Martina Franca, Lecce and Gallipoli that we didn’t quite have time for. Even though we managed to fit a lot into four days, it felt good to take a slower pace and soak it all in. Once we got to a town, we tried not to look at a map, but just let ourselves get lost without a fear of missing out on seeing something. We put our phones away and really tried to see everything with our eyes, not first through the lens of a camera (although I did get a bit snap happy!). Often we found our way back to where we were just because of the small size of some of these places. And I think that’s the best way to experience Puglia – unplugged and off the beaten track.