Oh Florence, where to begin. A city with an almost mystical, magical charm, steeped in art history and cultural power – the birthplace of not just the Renaissance, but the negroni and even the piano too!
It can claim to be the capital of Italy for only the very shortest of periods – from 1865 to 1871 – but it could be said to be the artistic heart of the country, home to Botticelli, Brunelleschi, Michelangelo and Leonardo di Vinci. Once an obscure market town in the rolling hills of Tuscany, Florence was firmly put on the map by the illustrious, wealthy Medici family, who built their reputation by funding art and architecture. Today, tourists flock to the city to get a glimpse of the famous David, or to step inside the dazzling Duomo, which took nearly 142 painstaking years to build.
Florence does get busy and I was told to expect queues, but away from the crowds I found a quieter side to the city, especially around Santo Spirito – an area of cobbled streets, green shuttered buildings, ramshackle doorways, old school photo booths, natural wine bars and neighbourhood trattorias.
In this guide, I’ve collated all my very favourite finds for a relaxed city break, avoiding the tourist traps and instead focusing on authentic, local eateries and hidden gems that will make you feel like you could easily live in the city.
Florence travel guide
PLACES TO EAT AND DRINK
It goes without saying that Italy has some of the best food in the world, and trust me when I say that when you go to Florence, you’re going to eat well. This is practically a trip for the stomach, let alone the eyes and the soul. Avoid the touristy places that have been overhyped on Instagram (Vivoli, I’m looking at you), where you might be expected to wait half an hour for a 3 euro coffee, and instead seek out the more authentic, neighbourly haunts. From natural wine bars and family run trattorias to homely bakeries and the best gelato in town, here’s my top picks:
COFFEE SHOPS, CAFES AND GELATO
– S.forno – Via Santa Monaca, 3r, Santo Spirito – A quaint, cosy neighbourhood bakery and deli with an unpretentious feel; skip the coffee and grab a focaccia or one of their freshly made cakes.
– Ditta Artigianale – various locations – One of the only specialty coffee roasters I could find, if you want a decent flat white and love your coffee like I do. The Sant’ Ambrogio one was my favourite spot.
– Floret – Via Roma, 19/21/1° piano – This cafe was attached to my hotel and I loved the cool, vintage feel of the space. They offer an all day menu – head here for brunch.
– Sbrino Gelatificio Contadino – Via dei Serragli, 32r – A small, 100% natural gelateria in the quieter district of Santo Spirito.
– Gelateria Della Passera – Via Toscanella, 15/red – Another tiny gelateria that got recommended to me.
RESTAURANTS AND WINE BARS
– Babae – Via Santo Spirito, 21R – Florence is known for its wine windows, tiny openings on street facades where you can order a glass of wine from an invisible person behind. It was originally a way for wine merchants in the 16th century to sell wine without having to pay taxes and gained in popularity again after the pandemic.
– Il Santino – Via Santo Spirito, 60/r – A tiny wine bar attached to its sister restaurant Il Santo Bevitore, serving local wines from small producers around Florence.
– Enoteca Spontanea – Via Maggio, 61r – A cool natural wine bar with a relaxed, laid-back feel, where you can feel like one of the locals.
– Loggia Roof Bar – Piazza Santo Spirito, 9 – It is said that the negroni was invented in Florence, so head here, to the top of the stylish Hotel Palazzo Guadagni for a sunset drink on their panoramic terrace. Book ahead.
– Trattoria Cammillo – Borgo San Iacopo, 57/r – An authentic Tuscan restaurant, which has romantic charm and an unfussy ambience. Make sure to book ahead, I couldn’t get in!
– Ristorante Cafaggi – Via Guelfa, 35 – As recommended by British chef Jackson Boxer and it didn’t disappoint. I didn’t hear anyone who wasn’t Italian so I think that’s also a good marker of a quality Florentine restaurant!
WHERE TO SHOP
– Brac – Via dei Vagellai, 18/R – A modern bookstore and arts space hidden down a little side street, with a vegetarian restaurant at the back.
– Studioteca – Via dei Benci, 32r – Women’s fashion and an eclectic selection of homeware, artfully displayed on vintage tables. I loved their glassware!
– Bottega D’Arte Paperone – Via del Proconsolo, 26/R – This father-son duo makes traditional marbled goods, prints, patterned paper and more from a little workshop at the back of their shop.
– Maglificio Grp – Via Sant’Agostino, 30 – A family business and knitting factory that has been making classic, timeless knitwear since 1973.
– Loompa Fruilane – Via Maggio, 11/R – Makers of velvet slippers and Mary Janes, all handmade in Italy.
– Momo Vintage – Via dei Serragli, 24r – Root around this vintage shop for classic designer pieces – but don’t expect to find a bargain though, this is high quality stuff.
THINGS TO DO
Florence, the home of Renaissance art and ancient sculpture, where art students and apprentices have gathered for centuries. Whether you want to admire Botticelli’s ‘The Birth of Venus’ or look up at the towering, chiselled form of Michelangelo’s David, or perhaps seek out something a little more modern, I’ve got you covered. With the major sites, it pays to book a time slot ahead to avoid the crowds and queues – you don’t need to pay extra to queue jump on sites like GetYourGuide, simply book on each museum’s website. You can also get a combined ticket, valid for five consecutive days, for all the museums for 40 euros. And if you time your visit with the first Sunday of the month, all Florence’s state museums are free for the day!
– Uffizi Galleries – Piazzale degli Uffizi, 6 – An art museum dating back to the 16th century, home to works by Botticelli, Michelangelo, Caravaggio and a host of other Florentine masters.
– La Galleria dell’Accademia – Via Ricasoli, 58/60 – Michelangelo’s David is by far the biggest draw here.
– Boboli Gardens – A huge open air museum and Italian style garden originally designed for the illustrious Medici family, with ornate grottos and grand Italian statues. My favourite part was the little botanical garden hidden in the centre of the park.
– Museo Marino Marini – Piazza di S. Pancrazio – A museum dedicated to 20th century Italian artist and sculptor Marino Marini, housed in a former church that was later converted into a museum in the 1980s by architects Lorenzo Papi and Bruno Sacchi. It felt very Carlo Scarpa, if you’re into your architecture.
– Giardino delle Rose – Viale Giuseppe Poggi, 2 – Climb up to this terraced garden, created in 1865 by Giuseppe Poggi, for panoramic views across Florence. The best place to watch the sunset is from Piazzale Michelangelo, where you can take in the Tuscan hills on one side and the city and the Duomo on the other.
– Giunti Odeon – Piazza degli Strozzi – The perfect example of what should be done with old cinemas past their prime – turn them into a bookshop where you can watch films from the balcony for free. While I was there, I got to see Romeo and Juliet.
– Fotoautomatica – Dotted around the city you’ll also find various vintage photo booths where you can get a classic black and white photo strip for just 2 euros.
Als0 see:
– Museo Novecento
– Museo Nazionale del Bargello
– Museo degli Innocenti
– Museo Ferragamo
WHERE TO STAY
– Palazzo San Niccolò by Numa Stays – Via di S. Niccolò, 77/79 – Numa has a couple of locations across Florence, and indeed Europe. but this one seemed to have the most beautiful setting, complete with a communal courtyard garden that makes you feel like you’ve truly escaped the city. Housed in an old palazzo on the south of the River Arno, a short stroll from Santo Spirito, it blends historic charm with modern comfort. Think crisp white sheets, REN products in the bathroom and Nespresso coffee machines in the rooms. I stayed in a one room apartment that had a little kitchenette and a private balcony that was perfect for quiet breakfasts before a busy day of site seeing – book here.
Getting there – it was actually cheaper for me to fly to Pisa than to Florence (the difference of about £200!). I could then get the Pisamover from Pisa airport to Pisa Centrale, then a local train from Pisa Centrale to Florence Santa Maria Novella, which took about an hour and cost around £8.50 – easy!
