Last week I headed down to Cornwall for a much-needed break, stopping off on the way in the small town of Bruton. An unassuming rural Somerset town you might think, but Bruton is fast becoming a must-visit cultural destination, thanks to art gallery Hauser & Wirth and the stylishly-pared back restaurant with rooms, At The Chapel. There’s the newly opened Caro as well, a homeware and coffee shop, which also has covetable rooms for an overnight stay or two. (And that’s not to mention the host of celebrities that live in the small town: Cameron Mackintosh, Rhys Ifans, Sam Taylor-Wood, Phoebe Philo and Alice Temperley, to name a few…) Forget London or New York, this is the obviously the place to be.
I’ve visited both At The Chapel and Hauser & Wirth before, once again on another stopover on the way south west – you can see my my review of At The Chapel here, and a post on when Hauser & Wirth first opened here. Hence, this post is much more of a photo story, sharing my most recent snaps and bits I enjoyed the most.
Hauser & Wirth Somerset first opened its doors last year, having already cemented its reputation with spaces in London, Zurich and New York. The gallery is housed in Durslade Farm, at one time a working farm and also – interesting fact – the location of the film Chocolat, starring Juliette Binoche and Johnny Depp. The former farm buildings were transformed into light, bright gallery spaces by Paris-based Laplace & Co and extended by two new buildings to form a sunny courtyard in the middle. The old farmhouse (pictured above) was also converted into a place for artists-in-residence as well as the public to stay (that will be for the next trip!).
But this isn’t just an art gallery, it’s much more a place to go for a whole afternoon, grab a coffee, take in an exhibition and walk in the garden, taking in its multiple sculptures (such as Louise Bourgeois’ spider in the courtyard, pictured below). There’s also the Roth Bar & Grill, a bar and restaurant run by Catherine Butler who also owns At the Chapel and a beautiful floral meadow created by landscape designer Piet Oudolf at the back of the gallery. This multicoloured Oudolf Field leads visitors to last year’s Serpentine Pavilion, designed by Chilean architect Smiljan Radic, now transported from Kensington Gardens in London to this idyllic rural setting.
When I first visited last year the meadow had only just been planted, it was amazing to see the transformation into an almost wild piece of nature, abuzz with butterflies and honey bees. Despite its organic look, the meadow was actually meticulously shaped and planted, almost in the tradition of classical gardens. Its designer Piet Oudolf gathered a variety of species and combination of plants in carefully curated colourful groups, softening the formality of its appearance. A series of paths cut through the vegetation, leading visitors to the almost prehistoric shell of Smiljan Radic’s pavilion.
Smiljan Radic’s pavilion feels so much more at home in the countryside. It’s a curvaceous structure of fibreglass sitting atop a Stonehenge-like array of boulders. Inside it feels like a protective cocoon, with light coming through the translucent shell and cut-outs to the landscape and Piet Oudolf’s field beyond.
At the Chapel, previously a 17th-century coaching inn, is a lovely contemporary hotel located in the centre of Bruton on the high street. It centres on a large and welcoming, double-height, former chapel that holds a restaurant, bar and cafe. Here you can quietly enjoy a coffee, sit at one of the communal bench tables with friends or dine on the delicious pizzas freshly out of the wood-fired oven. And top tip… after instagramming a couple of pics of my stay, I was also recommended not to walk away without one of their sourdough loaves from the bakery…
Upstairs and hidden away are eight tranquil, luxury rooms – think crisp white sheets, minimal artwork and deep baths with REN goodies in marble bathrooms. It really does guarantee a blissful night’s sleep, especially when you’re awakened to buttery, flakey, freshly baked croissants delivered to the door in the morning. Literally the best thing outside Paris… Plus check-out is at midday, perfect excuse to while away a morning in bed!
(Psst… if you book through iescape, they’re offering two glasses of prosecco on arrival, here).
All images: cate st hill
