It’s time for another travel guide – this time lovely Lisbon. I last visited in 2016 (see my old guide here), so this provides an updated Lisbon travel guide for the design conscious, taking in cosy cafes, neighbourhood bistros, and the best museums and contemporary art galleries.
Set over seven rolling hills with vast picturesque vistas, Lisbon is a truly beautiful city. Yellow trams chug up cobbled streets to lofty viewpoints or miradouros, ramshackle orange-roofed houses are painted in perfect pastel shades and clad in ornate patterned azulejo tiles, while sun-drenched terraces provide a welcome resting point along the way. As always the best way is to travel with your eyes – get off your phone and see where you wander to. You might come across tiny wine bars playing local fado music, tiny boutiques selling handmade tiles, and pretty squares where you can rest your weary feet.
All images: Cate St Hill
Lisbon travel guide
PLACES TO EAT AND DRINK
Lisbon seems like a real foodie place – honestly you’ll probably bookmark a hundred places for brunch and only find time to squeeze in a handful. Here I’ve highlighted my tried and tested favourites – I’m a very picky customer so know that I will only have recommended the best; offering the best balance of style and substance. I like a good cup of coffee, but I also want the surroundings to sing to me! From speciality coffee shops and homemade bakeries to natural wine bars and unpretentious bistros, here’s the best of the best.
COFFEE SHOPS AND CAFES
– Do Beco Santos – R. de São João da Mata 18 – They have two locations in Lisbon but this one is the most beautiful, with its neutral interior and marble tiled counter. I had perhaps the best bagel of my life here!
– Marquise da Mobler – R. Nova da Piedade 33 – This cosy cafe, although more Moroccan in style, is sandwiched between a sister store devoted to mid-century Scandinavian design, and their own bakery. On warmer days, escape the heat in their hidden backyard terrace.
– Dramático – R. da Alegria 41E – This one’s for the serious coffee lovers, serving La Cabra coffee in a narrow, light-filled shop on a quiet street corner.
– Castro – multiple locations – Everyone flocks to Pastéis de Belém, but if you want to escape the crowds head to these more upmarket ateliers in the centre of town. You can see the pastéis de natas – traditional Portuguese custard tarts – being freshly made through the window. Warm from the oven, they melt in the mouth in sweet, custard-y deliciousness!
– Neighbourhood Cafe Lisbon – Largo da Graça 13 – The perfect place for brunch once you’ve climbed the narrow, winding streets of the old town Alfama.
– Nannarella – R. Nova da Piedade 64A – An artisanal Italian gelateria selling ice cream made from traditional homemade recipes.
Other popular places I had on my list but didn’t make it to this time:
– Tact
– Hello, Kristof
– Fabric
– Seagull Method cafe
– Copenhagen Coffee Lab & Bakery
– Dear Breakfast
RESTAURANTS AND BARS
– Prado Wine Bar – R. das Pedras Negras 35 – A stylish, contemporary wine bar that you can tell is cool from it’s black HAY chairs and chalkboard menu of Portuguese organic and natural wines. Stay for a few small plates or dine next door at Prado Restaurant.
– Taberna da Rua das Flores – Rua das Flores 103 109 – An unassuming restaurant that packs a punch with historic tapas recipes – try the miso butter scallops and coconut prawns. Cash only.
– SEM restaurant – R. das Escolas Gerais 120 – Treat yourself to their seven course tasting menu or grab some snacks and small plates at their wine bar.
– Magnolia – Praça das Flores 43 – The loveliest neighbourhood bistro you’ll come across, on the most picturesque corner in the city. It looks onto a very quaint square, where you can find a collection of other highly rated restaurants, such as Flores da Pampa and Cafe Tehran.
– Holy Wine – Calçada da Estrela 15 – A natural and low intervention wine shop with only six seats!
– Timeout Market – Mercado da Ribeira, Av. 24 de Julho – I don’t know if this has had its day and become too touristy, but it’s often a popular destination; a large covered dining hall set within the old Mercado da Ribeira.
CULTURAL THINGS TO DO
Lisbon is the perfect place to go if you want to get your cultural fix, with a strong collection of historic museums and contemporary galleries that rival any other capital. Ideally you need about three days to fully explore the city – there’s a lot to see! I’d suggest one day exploring the old town of Alfama, then walking further west to Bairro Alto and Chiado, climbing slowly to take in the views from the lofty miradouros or viewpoints overlooking the rooftops. Sometimes it’s better to lose the map and just go where your feet (or eyes!) guide you.
Then you can spend another day further along the river in Belém, the old museum district of Lisbon, stopping off at the MAAT Museum and LX Factory for lunch. On the third day you can take in the more centrally located museums, such as the Centro de Arte Moderna Gulbenkian and MUDE. Fuel up with pasteis de natas and you’re good to go!
MUSEUMS AND ART GALLERIES
– MAAT – Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology – Av. Brasília, 1300-598 – Opened in 2016, a museum overlooking the Tejo river that’s split between two buildings – a former power station built in 1908, and a contemporary, tile-clad building designed by British architect Amanda Levete. Top tip: the roof of sinuous, sting ray-like building is perfect for catching the sunset.
– Centro de Arte Moderna Gulbenkian and the Museu Calouste Gulbenkian – Rua Marquês de Fronteira 2 – You could easily spend all day here – a Modernist arts venue set in a lush, sprawling garden, comprising a historic museum and a contemporary gallery featuring a new extension by Japanese architect Kengo Kuma, read more here. The gardens are free and open every day from sunrise to sunset.
– Atelier Museu Júlio Pomar – R. Vale 7 – A small museum dedicated to one of Portugal’s greatest painters, Júlio Pomar, set within an airy white-washed atelier.
– Arpad Szenes – Vieira da Silva Foundation – Praça das Amoreiras nº56/58 – A museum housed in a former silk factory dating from the 18th century, dedicated to 20th century artists Vieira da Silva and her husband Arpad Szenes.
– Museu do Chiado – National Museum of Contemporary Art – R. Serpa Pinto 4 – Split between two buildings, including a former convent, this museum showcases 19th and 20th century works from the likes of Rodin, in addition to contemporary Portuguese work.
– MUDE – Museu de Design e da Moda – R. Augusta 24 – Iconic furniture from the likes of Alvar Aalto and Ron Arad rub shoulders with fashion from Christian Dior and Balenciaga against a backdrop of rough concrete in this former bank.
– Museu Nacional do Azulejo – Rua da Madre de Deus, 4 – Set in a former convent, this museum explores the history of tiles, which you can’t help but see are a foundational feature of Portuguese architecture as you walk around the city.
CULTURAL LANDMARKS
– Explore the old town of Alfama – Alfama is one of the oldest districts of the city and also one of the prettiest. A web of cobbled streets weave uphill from the imposing Gothic cathedral Sé to the commanding Moorish castle of São Jorge, passing shaded terraces and bars spilling onto walkways. Start at Miradouro de Santa Luzia with its bougainvillea draped outlook and Largo das Portas do Sol further along, before making your way up to Miradouro da Graca for a well earned pit stop and cold drink.
– Ride the No. 28 tram – Ride one of the old, traditional, yellow faced trams, which winds its way through Alfama, Baixa, Estrela and Graca. You can buy a Navegante card for 50 cents from any Metro station and top it up like the London Oyster card. It can then be used on buses, trams and the metro.
– Belém – The old museum district of Lisbon, a short tram ride west of the main city. Here you’ll find Mosteiro of Jerónimos, a gothic monastery dating back to 1501, and the Belém tower, a 16th-century fortification that was built to defend Lisbon.
– LX Factory – R. Rodrigues de Faria 103 – A cool, creative complex of shops, restaurants and bars, housed in an old, 19th century textiles factory.
SHOPS AND FLEA MARKETS
Don’t forget to pick up a souvenir – and no, I’m not talking about a fridge magnet. Leave space in your suitcase for a mug, or plate or two; ever since making painted azulejos, or tiles, in the 18th century, Portugal has become renowned for its ceramics.
– Feira da Ladra – Campo de Santa Clara – A vibrant flea market that dates all the way back to the 13th century – held every Tuesday and Saturday, 8am-6pm, find out more here.
– A Vida Portuguesa – Rua Nova do Almada 72 – A Lisbon institution; a treasure trove dedicated to Portuguese products, where you’ll find everything from shaving creams and exquisitely wrapped soaps, to homewares and delicious delicacies.
– Cerâmicas na Linha – Portugal, R. Capelo 16 – The place to go for Portuguese ceramics, where you can buy cups, bowls and plates for €6 a kilo.
– BRUS – R. do Crucifixo 28 – A tiny shop that’s easy to miss from the street, selling locally crafted ceramics.
– Ler Devagar – R. Rodrigues de Faria 103 – A bibliophile’s paradise, with two storeys packed with books.
– OPAR – R. Garcia de Orta 71C lj11 – An artisanal perfume lab that will help you build your own custom fragrance.
WHERE TO STAY
– Memmo Alfama – a lovely, contemporary boutique hotel offering the best views over historic Alfama. Think beige interiors, cosy bedrooms, crisp white sheets, fluffy bathrobes and homemade breakfasts. Top marks for free tours around the local area and live Fado music in the lobby.
I hope you enjoyed my Lisbon travel guide – do let me know if you visit and enjoy any of these recommendations. Or perhaps you have some tips of your own to share?
You can check out my other guides for Berlin, Barcelona, Venice, Cadaqués, Copenhagen, Helsinki and Amsterdam.
