My neighbourhood King’s Cross has a lovely new culinary addition- Grain Store- a restaurant by chef Bruno Loubet and The Zetter Group’s Michael Benyan and Mark Sainsbury. Located in the new Central Saint Martins building by Stanton Williams, just behind King’s Cross station, the restaurant sits next to the equally gastronomical Caravan.
The interiors were created by Russell Sage Studio and are designed around the idea of an ‘exploded kitchen’. The flexible interior blurs the lines between kitchen and dining room, with elements of the cooking process spilling over to the table. The kitchen is open to view, surrounded by high bars and communal tables. Opposite the kitchen there is a bar with drinks (including savoury drinks designed to match the food) created by Tony Conigliaro, and a small pastry and bread kitchen producing mouth-watering smells. There are pots and pans above your head, chopping boards hanging on the wall and shelves of fresh produce.
The food was delicious. Although many of the dishes have a meat or fish element, the menu gives vegetables equal billing, if not the starring role. I had sprouting beans and seeds with an aubergine puree and crispy chicken skin to start, followed by chermoula grilled quail on a runner bean and pistachio nut salad. We didn’t quite have enough room for dessert, but this provides the perfect excuse for another visit.
Images: Jonathan Lovekin and Amy Murrell
